Tattooing A to Z!!!

Spaluding laid it all out for us!

oh yeah godoy- I think we have a mutual friend, Denver Melissa...Small world. That gal knows EVERYONE. I think she should change her last name to 6 degrees of separation.haha...She was just talking to me the other day about you while I was tattooing her.

tattooing a-z i think is a waste of money unless you started on your own and dont know shit about tattooing, in which case you should get an apprenticeship. spaulding is OLD SCHOOL and a lot of the things he says are out dated. just my two cents

From the tip of the armature bar to the tip of the contact point, insert a dime, gap it for lining. Insert a nickel gap for shading.
I personally set my machine between 8-9v for shading, and 11-14 for lining.

From the tip of the armature bar to the tip of the contact point, insert a dime, gap it for lining. Insert a nickel gap for shading.
I personally set my machine between 8-9v for shading, and 11-14 for lining.

"From the tip of the armature bar to the tip of the contact point, "
Maybe I am mis-reading this.. but I looked at it like 10 times.. haha
Happy Ramadan from Iraq everyone - I'm still here...doing the man's bidding... Sometimes I stare at the sand and pretend I am tattooing... Go Army Reserves (they told me I would learn how to make refrigerators and such...boy was I tricked)!

Hey whats up guys , first of all i seen a pro write the volts or making the volts high will make it faster , he said for the speed !!!! NO , thats wrong , voltage changes the HIT not the speed , speed is changed by the front spring !!!! Thick front is faster and thinner or slower, BUT you need a power supply with a meter in it to KNOW the true speed !!!! You can not guess the cycles per second, why would a pro write that crap well i guess cause they cant tune and buy them tunned, soooo sad , i am a pro that can tune a 50 machine to run like a brand name 500 machine, back spring tension causes the front spring flex and so that will change the duty cycle , put more tension to raise duty and less to lower duty, you can use different front springs so it dont flex and can have allot of tension but why , that just makes well, high tension = high volts = more skin trauma , unless your pushing a huge mag needle but still you don't need high tension, you all should check eikons magazines they are a great tool to learn FACTS about how a machine runs and what changes what , just know raising the volts will raise speed by a very very little bit !!!! And will kill your skin , now put a thicker front spring on or angle the contact screw to hit the middle of the front spring where it is wider ( if you have no thicker fronts ) then you will see a major jump in the true SPEED , makes me sad to know pros tattoo in shops and dont know shit aboyt a machine, i call them scratchers, dammmm people learn , one word eikon !!!!!!! Check there information and magazines out !!!!!!!

DIY Tattoo?
whats next?
DIY plastic surgery..
RE: how deep should i cut?

Good points except its a little extreme to call an artist who doesn't build machines a scratcher. That word gets tossed around quite a bit and it makes it lose a lot of it's weight, if it had any at all.

I've read your book Godoy. I found some useful information on there that I didn't pick up in other popular books, seminars & videos.

Though I don't know about the whole tape on the top of the coil core thing.

So, FK are you ever going to put out a book? Since i've been on here you have had some very useful advice.

Squeeze that brain of yours so we may drink your knowledge. : )

wow 2013 now uu. its ok important have to share u. yes like a car or motorcylcle; not too late uu.

tatmachine has a permanent "beam ramp" / deck were the backspring anchored that cant chance by hand only; unadjustable.

but there are 3 parts of it that can adjust; "load gear" ;to become up & low grade of your choice.
1- capacitor ;less #uf value more stroke and more #uf less stroke per
second; 10, 22, 35, 47 uf value are useful today.
2-backspring;where is the mother force of tatmachine; thicker create
hard hit than thin one these base on same width. addition force on
it is to make an exact amount curve done by the fingers force
only; these become your permanent force; tying to curving back
the power force will get lost; these time chance a new Bspring.
3-frontspring;is for stroke length & hard hit too; thicker hard hit, thin
soft hit. long lenght/ thin highstroke, short length/thick lowstroke
these base on same type of Fspring.


contactscrew is your last setting; very important to know the tune of G-spot; most of mahine ive tune i always hit that on not more than 3 twist cylcle when starting on first contact or running.; i prefer using silver or copper thick diameter on 11 o clock standing for lining & flat coloring. thin diameter of brass or bronze on long reach to the tip of Fspring on 10 oclock slant position so the vibration from contact produce it will help to less stroke but still in hard hit that ferpect on shading or soft shading.

watch out not to lost the the standard lenght stroke & hard hit . enjoy safe driving uuu.

hi all of you! im from philippines shares!.

I have the godoy book, Huck A-Z, Joey D's, and even dano Collins... But in the beginning of my carrer no one wanted to help I was even called a scratcher on forums for asking such questions as this. The Godoy book helped me out a lot, there is even a little section on tuning. I found Steve Godoy to be extremely helpful after calling and talking to him about his book, and machine (banana2) . These guys found what worked for them and published kudos to all. There's no simple solution to your question read and apply and find what works for you.
Junebug suggests unloaded shaders 40-46%duty 93-102cps, I like my junebug. liners 50-53% 125-140cps. Godoy on pg. 61 have the ball system, Huck tells the witdth of a dime for a liner, nickel for a shader. I only have 9 machines and they all run differently-but they do what they are supposed to.