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Tattoo coils

Posted by clever thoughts from IP: 24.45.237.97 on 06/12/11
, ny United States - website


What is the point of 1.5 ( 1 and a half coils). I seen FK irons have 1 and a half coils on them. Are they better and should i chose them over normal coils ?


I have not seen anyone answer this question or talk about it. Are they special or just a coil and a half , how are they wrapped ? Lets talk about this topic. Thanks, Maybe someone knows something about coils and 1 1/2 coils. Also it dont say if there 8 or 10 wrap coils , anyone ?



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RE:Tattoo coils

Posted by clever thoughts from IP: 24.45.237.97 on 06/14/11
, ny United States - website


DAMN , This forum totally blows now !! They ruined it and put it to rest. Not one persons answers a question or knows about coils,sad. I am going to promote this forum everywhere to all tattoo artists so it can be called a forum again.


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RE:Tattoo coils

Posted by Ed from IP: 71.233.53.191 on 06/15/11
Wallingford, CT United States - website


I don't own an FK machine (yet,) but Ive got two machines that I built with FK 1 1/2 coils, a liner and shader, and a liner that I built with a set of 1 1/2 coils I bought from another builder. They all run consistently well, the FK's considerably better. The theory behind the 1 and a half is that it shifts more of the weight to the front of the machine, better feel, better balance, better center of gravity, especially noticeable difference on a light frame, like steel or aluminum. your machine will be better balanced, easier to pivot when cross-hatching, tight circles, etc, in other words an easier tattoo session.

Another advantage is that there is more magnetism on the front coil, and less on the back. I'm only speculating here, and Im only a novice builder, not a pro by any means, but if you think of the abar and rear spring as a diving board, mechanical advantage comes into play. It is easier to push a diving board down if you push it down from the tip, (or nipple on an abar) as far away from the fulcrum of the board, or rear spring deck of the abar as possible. It would be more difficult to push the diving board down if you were to stand on it in the middle, and almost impossible if you were to push from the back of the diving board just in front of the fulcrum. (or rear spring deck) The same weight or amount of force, has greater effect on the board/abar as you move out toward the tip, and less effect as you push nearer to the base. Same with an a-bar. with less conductivity on that back coil, and more force pulling from the front coil, the mechanical advantage is increased on the abar, because its pulling where it easier to pull and it requires less force, or voltage, to pull it down. The half coil in the back pulls with less force, re-compensating for the added force in the front, balancing the down-pull so that the machine doesnt hit erratically.So, in other words, if youre running standard coils at six volts, 50 percent of the electromagnetism goes to the front and back coil. With the one and a halfs, the front coil conducts about 65% of the voltage where the mechanical advantage is greater, and electromagnetism is most effective, (toward the tip of the diving board, or abar,) and about 35% on the back, where electromagnetism is least effective, and mostly absorbed by the resistance of the spring tension anyway, but still just enough to balance the electromagnetism for a balanced downstroke. The electromagnetism of the coils is redistributed more effectively along the abar, more where the electromagnetism is most effective, and less where it is least effective, resulting in a machine that requires less voltage. Less voltage means less erratic, less vibration, less skin trauma, and a more consistently running machine.
.. I should add here that Most 1 1/2 coil systems are ten wrap, so using 1 1/2 10-wrap coils at 6 volts is very much like using two full size coils in 8-wrap, at the same voltage. The physical amount of copper wire is the the same in weight on a full 8 wrap pair as on a 1 1/2 10 wrap pair, but that extra 25% of copper wire is missing from the back coil is redistributed around both coils. As for the FK's, the cores are wider (so are FK abars which I also recommend) resulting in even more effectively distributed electromagnetism. they look like 10's but with the thicker core, they could be big-boned 8's, Im not sure, but after using FK's, you may never use anything else. The quality is unlike anything Ive ever seen, my custom shader pushes 5 to 23 mags perfectly and consistently every time and I only need to run them to at 4.5 to 6 volts. Same with the liners. Again, this is all theory, specifically my theory, and I could be wrong, so take it with a grain of salt. Best thing to do would be to contact the builders who distribute these coils/machines. All the ones Ive talked to have been very approachable and willing to answer questions happily. Good luck.


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RE:Tattoo coils

Posted by Ed from IP: 71.233.53.191 on 06/15/11
Wallingford, CT United States - website


I don't own an FK machine (yet,) but Ive got two machines that I built with FK 1 1/2 coils, a liner and shader, and a liner that I built with a set of 1 1/2 coils I bought from another builder. They all run consistently well, the FK's considerably better. The theory behind the 1 and a half is that it shifts more of the weight to the front of the machine, better feel, better balance, better center of gravity, especially noticeable difference on a light frame, like steel or aluminum. your machine will be better balanced, easier to pivot when cross-hatching, tight circles, etc, in other words an easier tattoo session.

Another advantage is that there is more magnetism on the front coil, and less on the back. I'm only speculating here, and Im only a novice builder, not a pro by any means, but if you think of the abar and rear spring as a diving board, mechanical advantage comes into play. It is easier to push a diving board down if you push it down from the tip, (or nipple on an abar) as far away from the fulcrum of the board, or rear spring deck of the abar as possible. It would be more difficult to push the diving board down if you were to stand on it in the middle, and almost impossible if you were to push from the back of the diving board just in front of the fulcrum. (or rear spring deck) The same weight or amount of force, has greater effect on the board/abar as you move out toward the tip, and less effect as you push nearer to the base. Same with an a-bar. with less conductivity on that back coil, and more force pulling from the front coil, the mechanical advantage is increased on the abar, because its pulling where it easier to pull and it requires less force, or voltage, to pull it down. The half coil in the back pulls with less force, re-compensating for the added force in the front, balancing the down-pull so that the machine doesnt hit erratically.So, in other words, if youre running standard coils at six volts, 50 percent of the electromagnetism goes to the front and back coil. With the one and a halfs, the front coil conducts about 65% of the voltage where the mechanical advantage is greater, and electromagnetism is most effective, (toward the tip of the diving board, or abar,) and about 35% on the back, where electromagnetism is least effective, and mostly absorbed by the resistance of the spring tension anyway, but still just enough to balance the electromagnetism for a balanced downstroke. The electromagnetism of the coils is redistributed more effectively along the abar, more where the electromagnetism is most effective, and less where it is least effective, resulting in a machine that requires less voltage. Less voltage means less erratic, less vibration, less skin trauma, and a more consistently running machine.
.. I should add here that Most 1 1/2 coil systems are ten wrap, so using 1 1/2 10-wrap coils at 6 volts is very much like using two full size coils in 8-wrap, at the same voltage. The physical amount of copper wire is the the same in weight on a full 8 wrap pair as on a 1 1/2 10 wrap pair, but that extra 25% of copper wire is missing from the back coil is redistributed around both coils. As for the FK's, the cores are wider (so are FK abars which I also recommend) resulting in even more effectively distributed electromagnetism. they look like 10's but with the thicker core, they could be big-boned 8's, Im not sure, but after using FK's, you may never use anything else. The quality is unlike anything Ive ever seen, my custom shader pushes 5 to 23 mags perfectly and consistently every time and I only need to run them to at 4.5 to 6 volts. Same with the liners. Again, this is all theory, specifically my theory, and I could be wrong, so take it with a grain of salt. Best thing to do would be to contact the builders who distribute these coils/machines. All the ones Ive talked to have been very approachable and willing to answer questions happily. Good luck.


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RE:Tattoo coils

Posted by clever thoughts from IP: 24.45.237.97 on 06/19/11
, ny United States - website


well FK uses 8 wrap coils and a few builders i spoke to said they sell 8 wraps even though a few use 10's.

I also heard they effect duty cycle. You know anything about that ? And Thanks Allot for responding, its good to know someone on here knows about coils and 1 and a half coils or 1.5 ,whatever you wanna call them. Thanks again


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tattoo coils

Posted by Ed from IP: 71.233.53.191 on 06/19/11
Wallingford, CT United States - website


I run both full and 1.5's around 50-53 duty cycle. Duty refers to the ratio of time during which the needle is out at full stroke, to the time the needle is up in the tube retracted. needles usually get pulled down by coils at a certain speed, but rear spring tension has the most affect on duty. to be clearer, rear spring affects duty, front spring affects speed. upward spring tension makes needle travel back up as soon as coils cut out. needle continues to travel back up, and continues to do so, even as it strikes the contact point. more spring tension means more resistance against the coils even as the coils turn back on, and more downward force as front spring compresses more as a result for a quicker, harder hit. more bounce=more force, more compression between upswing and downswing means higher duty cycle because the needles are up in the tube for a fraction of a second longer than they are out against the coils due to the play in the springs.

Again, higher duty=harder hitting machine, more skin trauma, so you have to do your thing and get out and onto the next area. too much time in one area will cause rough healing, possibly scabbing or scarring. If duty is too low, the machine will bog down or bounce back with minimal penetration, especially if you're working on leathery skin. great if your going to layer with multiple passes and relentless noodling, bad for solid color. So, theoretically, different coils may affect duty cycle, especially with 1.5's having more force on the front, the a-bar snaps down quicker because of the added force from the front coil, but to be honest, I haven't noticed a big difference with 1.5's maybe one or two % higher, (but at less power than standard coils)

I think different coils, specifically 1.5's do affect duty cycle differently but I believe Duty cycle has more to do with the tension of the back spring. For Higher duty, thicker spring, like a 20 or 22, lower duty, use 16 to 18, although Ive never used below 18. You can adjust duty by bending the back spring up or down a little, or rolling them. more of an upward bend will increase duty cycle, but also increase spring tension compression against contact screw, and/or lengthen stroke.

again, careful with duty cycle. too high=jackhammer, too low=weak penetration. find the sweet spot for each machine, and remember that numbers will give you good feedback as to what your machine is doing, how it is performing, but numbers alone are only half the picture. Sound and feel are equally important. if the numbers look good and the machine sounds erratic and feels like its hitting too hard, its probably hitting too hard, and vice versa and you should adjust the power, adjust the springs, till you find that "magic buzz" then refer back to numbers and see if they make sense. Dont go by numbers alone. and, just a disclaimer, all of the above is theoretical, Im just sharing an educated guess based on hours of experimentation, but I am not a pro builder, more like a mad scientist when I have a few hours to kill at the shop so dont take anything Ive said as dogma and find what works best for how you tattoo through fearless experimentation.


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